Sunday, March 9, 2008

Dateline Down Under – Perth
Monday, February 25 – Friday, February 29, 2008


Monday, February 25, 2008
Rottnest Island, West Australia:


We were up at six and heading towards Rottnest Island. It was extremely HOT, HOT, HOT (40 C) – and there was absolutely no wind at all on the island. We set the alarm for six and were up and gone by 0700. We made our way to Perth, found the infamous city parking lot and walked to the pier where we would catch the ferry to Rottnest. We were really looking forward to trip, and were some what disappointed. It took two hours to get the island, although the narration was really interesting and we went by homes that were on the market for $85,000,000! Amazing but really beautiful and the information regarding the natural resources were really interesting. We rented Bikes and snorkel gear, both were marginally usable and Carol was really disappointed with the bike she had been given.

All of the information we had been given said the island is for bikes only, except tourist buses and other service vehicles that use the bike lanes as well – just a recipe for road kill here. It was so hot even the Island Quokkas (marsupials the Island is named after – see photo at the usual place) stayed out of sight all day. We had a very nice buffet lunch at the lodge and decided the next time we come here we will spend a couple of days on the island. The late afternoon ride across the Indian Ocean as smooth and we really enjoyed our time together! For more pictures take a look at the Rottnest Photo Album on Google Picassa!

Tuesday, February 26, 2008
York and Muchea, Southwest Australia


It is really heating up again in Perth today. Our five mile exercise route is killer today. Both of us are taking serious gas as we finish the route.

Off to York again to pick up a few souvenirs we forgot last trip – tea towels and a hand bag, some ice cream (very good in Australia) and, oh yeh, a handful of Mrs. Mac’s pies to take home and cook! We are both really getting into meat pies here. Steve was here before and really liked them a lot. He has Carol into pies now. We will have a lot more opportunity to test the best and the rest.

We also headed back North to get a few Road Train photos along the Brand Highway and “The Great Northern Highway.” Won’t bore you details (earlier blog has the stuff), but we saw Road Trains with names of the actual vehicles (or drivers) such as “Lots of Ballz,” “Spook” and “Gets Tha’ Job Done.” Steve talked to a couple of drivers at a road Train Assembly area where he took a few photos, as when they are on the road they have the jet wash of a 747. These are the “short versions.” Once you get north the size limit increases to 160-feet long and there is NO SPEED LIMIT. This is the job Steve MUST have when he returns here to work! Check out the photos on the Road Trains and Roads East Photo Album on Google Picassa!

Also note the photo of the “Bicycle Lane” designator we took. This is on a HIGHWAY no less, which includes bikers, stops lights, and cross traffic entering from all directions. Makes driving interesting. As we spend more time here we run into more less-behaved drivers, and oh, apparently no rules here about stopping for emergency vehicles on the road. Saw a bunch of fire trucks screaming toward some sort of field blaze (we could see it in the distance), and the guy behind us nearly rear-ended us and was pretty pissed at Steve. We watched as another fire struck came down the road in the opposite direction, and no one even made an attempt to pull over! Another driving lesson learned in Australia!

Big news is Steve, who used to look for ways to AVOID round-abouts when we first got here, now goes out of his way to practice in two-lane round-abouts while Carol hangs onto the door latch for dear life…. Fun, fun, fun…

Meat Pies and a nice glass of wine for dinner, and it is off to bed. So until tomorrow’s adventure begins, we remain, Steve and Carol, wandering around the world.

Wednesday, February 27, 2008:

We got up early this morning for our morning run and then we were off to the Perth Mint for the grandkids gold coins. We decided we would forego the traditional t-shirts and we would buy all of the grand children a gold coin with their name and birth date engraved. We thought that while it is probably not as cool as stickers, we thought it would be a really nice gift and they will never forget where grandma and grandpa went.

When we got home, Carol decided to call Erin (she had a feeling that she needed to call and you never mess with Carol when she has those “feelings.”) Well, things were not good…Erin was on the way to the hospital. Her back is hurting; she is coughing and is sick to her stomach. We tell her to send us an email as soon as she finds out anything and begin waiting. After about three hours we find out that they are admitting her to the hospital with gall bladder problems, liver problems and a host of other ills they are not too sure about. More tests tomorrow and then we will know what we are up against!!

Finally after more tests the doctors decide she has gall stones and schedule her for two procedures, the first one is to go in microscopically and break up the gall stone, they believe this will help with the pain and also reduce the liver enzymes (did I mention hepatitis too?) and then schedule Friday to remove her gall bladder. We ask her if she wants us to come home and she says in a very small voice “yes” then says no, she doesn’t want to ruin our vacation. We decide to start making plans to get home and send Matt (our wonderful travel agent) an email letting him know that we need to return to California.

It is amazing what you can do from 10,000 miles away from home and we are very fortunate to have computer savvy people in our family. We were on the phone with Shawna, Dan and Erin as well as on email with Tasha (our niece), we were also able to contact our family doctor and ask him to check in with the hospital to make sure things are going right! We were emailing, texting and instant messaging everyone!

We clean up the house and begin the arduous process of packing up and getting ready to hit the road at 3:00 a.m. in the morning on Friday morning. We were on a plane at Perth and flying to Sydney by 6:00 a.m. and heading to California by 4:15 p.m. that afternoon. We finished up our “souvenir” shopping at the Sydney airport, found some libations for the road home (the bad part of getting tickets at the last moment is you take what you can get, and there was no business class seats available!) We also did not have seats together so we relied on Carol pleading her case to the guy sitting next to her and begging him to change seats with Steve who had already tried but got no where with the cranky lady sitting next to him.

Our seatmate Cheryl was great and listened to Carol tell her sad tale of woe and the two of them began sharing stories…. Seems Cheryl and her husband weren’t together either, and she was okay with that but felt Carol’s pain. Finally after getting off the ground the cabin attendants starting handing out drinks before dinner, we both asked for wine. After drinking the first mini bottle (which is kind of like fancy vinegar in “cattle car” class) we asked our steward Nick if we could have another bottle when he had a moment and Carol told him she was rushing home because her daughter was having surgery. Nick was wonderful; he brought us four “short dogs” and said he would take care of us. Shortly after he came by with a bottle of the “first-class” chardonnay from France and glass glasses! It was great! We all shared that bottle and had dinner. By then we had become instant friends and Nick took care of us for the rest of the flight and just as we landed in San Francisco, Nick came by, gave us all a hug and gave us another bottle of red wine to take off the plane with us. We left the plane knowing we had new friends and there are good people in the world!

We went through customs, raced to the car rental and headed towards Sacramento. We called everyone and let them know that we were back in the USA and were heading towards the hospital. After about an hour and a half we met Greg (Vara’s Dad) at the airport and he loaded our bags and took us to the hospital where we were met by Peggy Stephens (Vara’s Grandmother and Greg’s Mom) who said we had missed Erin going into surgery by about 10 minutes. They had taken her in the operating room and she was undergoing surgery. We had about an hour before we would know what was going on. Finally after an hour of waiting the doctor came out and said that everything had gone well and Erin would be going home that evening. Steve took the car home and got the house set up for people moving in, and Carol sat in Erin’s room waiting for her to come back from the recovery room. All of the pressures, all of the craziness, all of the hassles were well worth it when they rolled Erin back into her room. Carol was sitting in the chair and as Erin came in she just started crying and so did Carol. I couldn’t have been any other place than in that hospital when Erin came out…it is something anyone who has children can understand.

So we are home, early but it is well worth it. Dan came up from Las Vegas with Allyson so we got to spend three days with Dan, Erin, Ally and Vara…it was really nice and good to see the girls and we made it home in time to go to Shawna and Gabino’s house to celebrate with Niko (Gabino and Shawna’s son) as he turns 18. Shawna and Tasha were a HUGE help to Carol getting through all of this stuff, as they coordinated and handled phone communications with every one. As Steve always says, everything works out in the end, and maybe we were supposed to be home! We will get to see all of the grandkids and all of the kids!!!

So, Carol spent her birthday with Erin, Vara and the Hargis’ (our friends from Moreno Valley) and we are planning a big 50 party for the end of the month! If you would like to join us, send us an email and we will get the details to you!

Until the next trip…we remain yours…

Carol and Steve

Sunday, February 24, 2008

Dateline Down Under - We're back on the Road!

Wednesday, February 20, 2008
Canning Vale, West Australia:

The Steve and Carol Show is officially back on the road today and we are out and on the road bright and early… well, not sure about the bright part, but we have more than 225 miles to cover today, plus a LOT of sight seeing, so we know it is going to be a long day. We have a new car now. Our little Holden is being fixed in a Fremantle garage, we have a Toyota Camry and we are ready to roll.

We are off to the Southwestern Region; also know as the Margaret River Region, of Southwest Australia. This is the very bottom southwest corner of the continent, and we have been really looking forward to this portion of our touring. It is loaded with beaches, wineries, forests, caves and light houses, all favorites of ours. It is also where the Indian and Southern Oceans meet, as well as home to the “Roaring Forties,” which is one of the nastiest stretches of Open Ocean in the world.

We hit the road with the early morning commute traffic going into downtown Perth until we make our turn to head on down south along the Roe Highway. It is a very clear, cool morning and the wind is once again blowing pretty hard. It has been howling all night, but there is a storm coming in off the Roaring Forties down at Cape Leeuwin by mid-day Thursday, so we gotta get going.

The road signs in Australia (at least in these parts) have frustrated both of us to some degree. As there are not a lot of direct highway routes into the city in the same sense as the States, you will think you need to get into a freeway going north, but the road sign shows south, because you have to go south before you can go north, if that makes any sense. We have also noticed the problem is compounded by the fact that our orientation is a little off here in the southern hemisphere, which is interesting. What we usually look at as north in the daytime sky usually turns out to be south. They do not put compasses in the cars here (at least the ones we are driving). It took us a week or so to figure this out, and Steve is just glad he is not flying a plane down in these parts, or we could be in for some big trouble!

We travel from Perth to Bunbury along the Old Coast Road as Sheena Lannin has suggested which takes us along side a number of nice beaches and small coastal villages. We are really surprised at the growth away from the main city of Perth. It appears many people are moving into the countryside, especially along the ocean front here. They have had news pieces on about the “Mortgage Stress” here in Australia, but you would never know it out here. They are building like gang busters everywhere we drive.

We arrive in Bunbury and drive through town. It is listed as “The Gateway to the South West of Australia” but we are continuing on toward another beach resort called Busselton, which appears to have a lot more activities for us touristas. We take a side-trip through a forest of Tuart Trees that are between 300 – 400 years-old, which is one of the last remaining natural forests of these trees in the world, on our way to Peppermint Beach, where the warning sign along the beach threatens Carol’s best friends, Snikes! The ocean continues to be just amazing along the beach front here. It is a vibrant teal green color to a darker green and crystal blue. We are not sure if the photos will do the colors justice, but it is truly beautiful. We are finding that Australian lawyers have studied their American brethren carefully, as we find signs warning us of everything from poisonous “mossie bites” to not performing foolish stunts among the rocks along the ocean. We have saved a few of the best of them for the Margaret River Trip Photo Album on our Picassa Photo Gallery. We could sure do with a LOT fewer lawyers in this world in our humble estimation!

Another thing different we have found about traveling in Australia is that you find bicyclists EVERYWHERE. Even on what they call Highways here there are stop lights, merging side-roads and people riding bikes, many of them out in the traffic lanes, so one must be attentive at all times. We pass a flock of them on the road heading toward Busselton.

We hit the beach resort of Busselton right just before lunch time – the main attraction here in on Geographe Bay is Busselton Jetty. It is the longest pier in the southern hemisphere at two kilometers in length. Built between 1865 and 1962, it even includes a rusty pair of rail tracks that are still used today to transport people on small trolleys. Of course, we have to walk the entire pier, which takes a few hours and helps us work up quite an appetite. You can see the pictures of our trek at our Busselton Photo Album. The Aussies, true to form, love their water sports, and the place is full of people doing all sorts of water-related things, from little ones learning to swim in the ocean (ties to ropes and floats under the watchful eyes of a couple of mom-life guard types) to scuba divers. We even see two people swimming the two klicks from the end of the jetty back to the main city beach. Unlike us, they appear to have absolutely no fear of sharks here. Sharks to Steve are what Snakes are to Carol!

We find what we consider to have been our best Fish and Chips experience to date since being here. The fish is “flake” (shark to Americans) and it is delicious. So delicious in fact, we are harangued by a ton of sea gulls while we eat, begging and crapping all over everything. Steve is looking around for a bat or something to keep them away, but they ARE persistent. We keep to our creed of never feeding any people food to any animal, so they go away hungry and noisy. We also come across one of the largest tree trunks either of us has seen in some time, right in the middle of the city park along the shoreline. Not sure what type of tree it is, and it is unmarked, but it has a huge trunk. We cruise the town on the way out and it is a picturesque little seaside resort town. It reminds us of small towns one finds off the beaten path in Hawaii, but not as touristy or crowded (except for seagulls). Again, the kids are back in school here, having finished their “summer vacation” the Monday after we arrived in Perth. The next big holiday here will be Easter Break, and the coastal resorts are girding for a huge influx of people on holiday as summer slips into autumn here Down Under.

We stop to gas up and ask for directions to Cape Naturaliste National Park’s north entrance and the store attendant tells us, “Do not miss driving down to Meelup (Mile-up in Aussie) Beach, and are we glad we talked with this guy. Meelup Beach (Place of the Moon Rising) is unbelievable in its beauty – it has now become our favorite place and on our short list of places to migrate to when we get tired of shoveling snow up in Pollock! The best way we can describe it is to take a combination of the South side of Maui (between the Seven Sacred Pools and about where Charles Lindberg is buried) in the Hawaiian Islands, throw in Point Reyes National Seashore (Eucalyptus trees) and Napa Valley in the autumn – just beautiful. It is a very small beach, and there actually three small bays along the road leading into the national park.

Cape Naturaliste National Park, we find later, runs all the way down the coast. There is a light house at the northern-most point (Cape Naturaliste) and another at the southern-most point (Cape Leeuwin, which means Lion in Dutch – named so by the first Dutch who explored here in a ship named the “Leeuwin”). We snag the park map and begin another bush hike that will take us around the cape below the lighthouse, with striking vistas of the Indian Ocean, the cape, Bunker Bay, and back toward Busselton. While we do enjoy the hike, the wind, the heat, the swarms of flies and mossies make hiking miserable, even with DEET on, they are relentless. We cannot imagine what it must be like out here on a still, hot day! Lighthouse tours are expensive here, and since we have already visited about every light house along the Oregon and California coastlines, we pass and stick to swatting flies and hiking. We come across a troupe of parrots that are jealously guarding what we suspect a nest. They are noisy and fly very close to us as we approach a stand of trees, so we head off through the bush in another direction to calm them down. Maybe they are just swatting the flies in the best way they know how, but we give them a clear berth.

We continue down the coast toward a small town called Yallingup, which is another cool Aussie town name. We had been told “up” meant “place of water” in Australian Aboriginal tongue, and we note now from a sign at the national park that “up” means simply “place of” in Aborigine, so we are learning to figure out whatever the word before the “up stands for, then just sort of add the last part on. Yallingup means “place of love,” which makes us smile. We seem to have also found a penchant for back roads here, some of them leading us into trouble as per last weekend at Pinnacles National Park. We check the map to ensure they are alright for two-wheel drive cars, and there is rarely any mention of “Hey, do NOT drive your (rental) car here,” so we just take the challenge and take our chances. We figure the American lawyers have not yet schooled the Aussie’s in this area of opportunity to sue others. Today’s adventure is along “Caves Road” and it is a nice (even paved and mostly two-lane!), shady highway that leads down the southwestern coast of Australia, passing through large forests, vineyards and beaches. Most of the vineyards here are covered with these huge nets, and Carol figures out it is to keep the Australian parrots, cockatiels and Magpies out of the grapes, which are just getting ready to harvest (remember, it is now September here almost – time for the crush). The wind continues to scream through the open windows in the car, but it is still warm so it feels good. It also allows us to smell the sea and the Eucalyptus trees along the road.

We come to a place called Canal Rocks, and Carol the geologist is out of the car with her Australian Geology Guide in hand. The rocks were formed some 750 million years ago before Gondwanaland and India collided. Today however, the rocks offer a spectacular wave show with the swells being driven against them by the fierce winds. We also come across a pair of crazy Aussie kids who are diving off this bridge into a very narrow, pitching channel between the rocks. These huge waves pound the rocks, the sea rushes into this narrow (and fairly deep) gorge, and then the water squirts out the other side in a rush. Steve is taking photos of the show and asks the young lady if she comes here and does this a lot? Her answer is, “not enough, Mate….” with a big smile on her face. We thought this was about as crazy as things would get today, but we are wrong.

Prevelly Park and all the surfing spots along the coast are our next stop – Bombie, Grunters, Boodjidup (no translation available), Surfer’s Point and the mouth of the Margaret River. Steve tried his telephoto lens out on a few young Aussie ladies sunning themselves on a float in the bay, and then turned his attention to a group of surfers, kite fliers and wave runners along the coast at Surfer’s Point. You can check the photos at the Prevelly Park Album on Google Picassa. The swells here are pretty large when the wind is blowing like today, and these folks just flock to the beaches in the area to test their skills. Some hitch up to their paravanes, fly out to a quarter mile off shore, and then ride back and forth across these huge ocean swells for long periods of time. While this is happening, there is (of course) another group of guys (at least in this group) standing around, drinking beer, making rude comments about the good or bad skills of those out in the water, and telling one another they are waiting “for the bigger stuff to come in…” They were quite animated in their language and actions so Steve asked one of the young men if he could take their group photo, and one of the guys replied, “Only if you are going to put it in a gay magazine back in America….” Steve popped right back at him, “Dude, I AM from San Francisco and gay magazines are the only magazines I shoot pictures for” with a deadpan expression on his face. The other guys began howling with laughter and ragged on the guys for being a “dumb arse…” Steve never did tell them if he was kidding or not, so there is probably a group of young Aussie surfers who will be buying every American gay magazine they can lay their hands on to see if they are famous or not! Also check out the cool camper van we took photos of in the parking lot here. Carol’s favorite Broadway play is “Wicked” and this is the name of one of the camper rental companies here in Western Australia. However, the interesting thing is the very unique way in which they are each painted. Not something you would usually see grandma and grandpa driving around in, but you see quite a few of them here from among various age groups, and people seem to like their style. They also come as 2 X 2 and 4 X 4’s.

We continued on to Lake Cave, checked out a couple of coastal caravan and camping parks to compare them with home (they are about the same as an American campground with just a different sort of ‘forest’ around them), and then moved inland toward the little town of Augusta, where we will stop for the night. The wind is REALLY howling now all the way to Augusta. There are pieces of trees, leaves, dust and all sorts of other interesting things being thrown across the road at our windshield as we continue south.

All of the sudden Steve spies something BIG – bigger than a chimpanzee, smaller than a gorilla, moving along the road up ahead. He slows the car down and asks Carol to get the camera out. Whatever it might be, it is NOT moving off the road, and it appears to almost have a stumbling gait. We are not interested in smacking anything with the front end of a rental car, so Steve slows way down as we move alongside whatever it is, and it turns out to be our first look at a wild Emu – first one of two we will see in the wild within about 24 hours. Think VERY large Ostrich – do not want another car accident, but Carol REALLY wants a photo. She is learning to use Steve’s Nikon so we drive along real slooooowwww, see if you can see the emu!

We finally arrive in Augusta about 7 p.m. We plan to check into our hotel real fast, go shoot some sunset/full moonrise photos at Cape Leeuwin which is about a 10-to-15-minute drive down the road, and then head back to town for a late dinner and bed. We pull up to the hotel, and IT IS NOT OPEN. Now, if you have been reading this blog with any consistency since we left home, you know we have been tempted to question our “luck” or “fate” since the day we left home on this trip, but we do have a paper reservation for the night at this hotel (it is a Best Western no less), and we are sort of dumb-founded. We ring the bell a few more times, and then notice a paper sign taped to the door that basically reads, “We are closing the office tonight at 6 p.m. If there is any sort of emergency call so-and-so at this number (and the number is listed).” We are tired and it has been a really long day. We also notice almost the entire town is closed up tighter than a tick, even though there is still about an hour of sunlight left. We decide to drive down the road where there is another hotel, go into the desk, and there is NO ONE THERE. We are waiting for the Twilight Zone theme song to begin playing. We walk around the corner to the drive-through liquor store (bottle shop), which IS open, and ask for help. The young man scares up a desk clerk for the one hotel about ten minutes later, who in turn calls the phone number we have for the other hotel– and low and behold – the evening shift for our hotel is at the pub drinking. She tells the first woman to send us back up the road, and she’ll come back and check us in – we now have a very nice room but it is almost 8 p.m. and we are informed that everything but one Chinese restaurant is closed by 7 p.m. in Augusta on weeknights. We forgo the photo-shoot and head over to the restaurant because we are tired, hungry (and in need of a stiff drink, in no certain order). We discover that the bottle shop is open until 10 or 11 p.m. ‘cause there is PLENTY of business going on there, so we’ll deal with that later.

If you recall our story in an earlier blog about our guide Daniel Boag and his brother the airline pilot who flies in and out of China; well, we met the air traffic controller’s sister tonight. We walked into the restaurant and she brusquely looked at the two of us and said, “Go Away! Come back five Minutes – No Time to Clean Table!” We just looked at each other and roared. She probably thought we were nuts, but we sat down and told her we would just sort of hang around until she had time to clear a table for us, if it was all the same to her! It turned out to be a really interesting evening for us, as we met an “almost American citizen” from Augusta who was back home visiting and seated at a table near us. Carol approached him and began talking with him about American and the elections – he was really excited to meet another American in such a small out-of-the-way place in Australia, tells her he cannot wait to do his first vote in the Presidential election later this year, and introduces her to his all of table mates – meanwhile Steve is charming the Chinese woman who runs restaurant about BBC Crime Shows (one is on the tellie in background and they are both very interested in it) – by this the time we get back to the Not Open Motel it is almost 10 p.m. and we are zonked – Bed

Thursday, February 21, 2008
Augusta, Southwest Australia

We are up, showered and gone by 0900. We have another long day of touring ahead of us, but there is so much to see and it is so beautiful down here we do not want to miss anything. For all of the pictures of our Augusta trip be sure to check out our Augusta Australia photo album on Google Picassa.

While Carol was taking a shower Steve was looking through one of those little booklets they leave in hotel in rooms all over the world, looking for a nice place to have breakfast (brekky here), and starts laughing hysterically. Carol runs in to find out what the hell is going on, as the T.V. news is not even on, which for some reason, always seems to humor Steve. Now you gotta understand Stevie is a little sick, and is a HUGE Beavis and Butthead fan. He and our son Dan can tell you any story line (if that definition can be properly used for a Beavis and Butthead show…) of any show. Well, anyway, there is this drawing of the local “veggie man” in the little booklet and his name is Steve and damned if he does not look just like a drawing of the Beavis character from the cartoon show. Of course there is a picture of this guy included in our Picassa vacation shots now and he does not even know he’s a star….

As we stop for fuel and a pair of huaraches for Carol we run into British man and his wife having same problem we had last weekend. His car is making some VERY rude noises, and the woman at the local garage/petrol station is telling him “Well, mate, the mechanic flaked out so there is no one around to look at or fix your car today.” He is, of course quite upset at this turn of events, but this is the only place in town for gas or repairs. He is still there fuming when we comeback through the town about three hours later on our way back north. Steve has no tools and knows nothing about newer autos, so we cannot help, but feel really bad because we have just been here. Again, our thanks to Rob Dellaway of Jurien Bay!

We had breakfast at this cool little restaurant called the “Colourspot” that is right on the Blackwater River in Augusta where it meets the Southern Ocean. The waitress is really friendly, and the food is great. When the Aussie’s say you get bacon for brekky here, they mean a LOT of bacon (done British style instead of those weasely little three strips we get at home), so Steve is in Heaven. The breeze is up and there are the beginnings of little cumulous clouds building. The waitress informs Carol the storm is due to arrive by about Noon in Augusta.

We head back to Cape Leeuwin, which sits at the South Western most point on the Australian mainland. This is the spot where the Southern and Indian oceans meet, and the location of the notorious “Roaring Forties,” one of the roughest and wildest stretches of Open Ocean in the world. Steve has read numerous books about sailors in everything from around the world racing yachts (Larry Ellison of Oracle fame lost his out here) to super tankers running into horrendous weather out in these parts. It is about 2,700 to the Kerguelen Islands out in the middle of nowhere to the southwest and about 3,400 miles to the Antarctic and the South Pole to the southeast. It includes the treacherous Bass Straight between the Tasman Sea and the Southern Ocean as well. The light house museum is full or sailor’s horror stories in these waters and Steve eats this sort of stuff up! This also gives us both a chance to wade in yet another ocean of the world, and the list keeps on growing. We have now added the Southern Ocean to the list!

We passed through Augusta and headed up the road again to Jewel Cave for another bush walk through a Giant Karri Tree forest and the huge Jewel Cave. The cave is one of the largest in Australia, with more than two km of passages that are almost 100 meters below the surface. Place is huge and Carol the geologist is fascinated with the place. The tour lasts well over an hour and it is well worth the time to stop by. We have some really good photos of the formations and minerals in the cave. To check the photos out go to the Jewel Cave Photo Album.

As we leave Jewel Cave it is beginning to rain, so we are watching the sky carefully, as they are predicting strong winds, hard rain and thunder storms in the area all afternoon. Also on our list for today is yet another is “scenic tour” of about 15 kilometers through another ancient Karri Tree forest located in Boranup. Boranup is amazing in that it is the furthest west that the third largest tree in the world, the Karri, lives in a native state. Some of the trees are more than 80 meters tall and are over 100 years old. We want to take some time to hike through these great forests, but also want to be mindful of the weather here in the bush areas. The trees are just immense and the forest is beautiful.

We have now learned that the Australian definition of a “Scenic Tour” usually includes a road that is a somewhat passable mix of two-wheel and four-wheel drive road, with plenty of exposed rocks and other stuff just waiting to puncture tires. After our experience of last weekend we are both wary and take it real easy. We actually see road signs that limit speeds to 40 kph (about 25 mph) along the road, which Steve states will probably tear the struts out of the front end of the car if we try and drive this fast. We pass a lot of 4 X 4 tracks out here, and only see three other vehicles back on this road… one of them is a 4 X 4 UTE (pick-up). Note to self – NO MORE “Scenic Tours.”

The wind is howling now, and the rain is moving between spits, fits and downpours, so we are very happy to get out at the other end of the “scenic tour” and back onto a paved road. On the recommendation of our breakfast host we decide to head for a small winery way out in the sticks east of the Town of Margaret River called “The Berry Farm.” We stop along the way and take photos of the thunder showers which are pretty violent on one side of the road. The sun is shining along the other. This is an amazing country, and we love the beauty and violence of the weather here. It is a lot like the Sierra on a hot summer afternoon up around the Carson Pass area…. Everything today but the lightning! The rain smell is strong, and it is mixed in with that of the cattle herds, grasslands and Eucalyptus trees. We just pull over, pop down the windows and enjoy, until the rain forces us to roll the windows back up and move on again.

We run out of pavement once again (this is becoming a standard thing for us here) and we follow a dirt road for a couple of miles and end up at the winery, just in time to be the last customers for ‘afternoon tea” (lunch) before they close to prepare for dinner. Steve finds another pack of new little friends (see the photos at the Berry Farm Album in Picassa) including a very large black, whitish-silver and yellow humming bird, and Carol picks out a special bottle of wine to drink on her 50th birthday, as we will be traveling to Tasmania from Cairns that day, and this too shall be a long day.

We leave the winery and head into Margaret River to purchase some Australian Meat Pies, which we are becoming addicted to, for a late dinner when we arrive home. They have all of these wonderful flavors of pies here, and Carol like the Chicken and Veggie pies, while Steve prefers “Shepherd’s Pie” or Minced Beef and Cheese. So far “Mrs. Mac’s authentic Pies” are our favorites, but we have sampled a LOT of meat pies since getting here, and we plan to sample a LOT more! The town is large and very busy. It is the largest tourist town in the area, mainly because of the local wineries. As we have plenty of those in Napa, we decide to just blow town and continue back up along the coast enjoying the late afternoon views.


We drive back up to a salt water lake known as Lake Clifton at Lake Clifton National Park. There we take another short hike to view the geological formations known as Thrombolites (Microbolites that are not to be confused with Lobstradites from the “Gunslinger” for you Stephen King fans). We also finally see our very first Black Swan, which this entire area, including the City of Perth, views as its bird of note. We have been here three weeks and this is the first one we spot. As we leave the park we are driving down this narrow, single lane (at least paved) road and Carol yells, “Stop!!” She has spied a herd of some 30 to 40 kangaroos along the side of the road in the bush. We pull over and try to take video shots of them, but unlike our pals at the Serpentine Falls National Park last week, these guys do NOT like people, so they are bounding all over the fields. It is really cool to watch them go along as a herd however. They are very fast and the just sort of spring along. They actually bounce quite high and forward as they move along. After seeing them up close last week, it is a real event to watch them in their “native” habitat where they shy away from people.
Steve has become the “round-about” expert driver here over the past few weeks, and now does not hesitate to even jump in-and-out of the multi-lane round abouts, which to the American driver, is simply a definition of insanity. Thank God we haven’t discovered round-abouts in America yet. He has even been blabbing about doing a “Double-mini” (something he saw on BBC’s “Top Gear” last weekend) and Carol shudders at the thought.

We continue back on into Canning Vale as the sun sinks into the Indian Ocean, and decided to end the evening with a few more moon photos. While the storm clouds have remained south as we have returned home the wind is still blowing quite hard here (hard enough to wiggle the tripod for the camera on the back patio), so the storm down south must be really rip-roaring. There is also the threat of another cyclone up north. Gee, what fun!

Meat Pies and a nice glass of wine for dinner, and it is off to bed. So until tomorrow’s adventure begins, we remain, Steve and Carol, wandering around the world.

Friday, February 22, 2008:

Friday is laundry day and beach day, however it is so windy we decide to just get some sunshine in the back yard, as we have no desire to go out to Cottlesloe Beach and get sand blasted. This house has become our house, and we feel so comfortable lounging around here, just as we would back in good ol’ Pollock Pines, except we noted that it is once again snowing back there and our tans are doing quite nicely here, thank you…

We have also been invited to John and Karen Crickmore’s house for a BBQ this evening. They are the poor people who live around the corner from Trevor and Sheena’s house, and have had to come over numerous times to tell us the alarm was going off before we got it fixed. Spent the entire evening with them, learned they (like many, many people here) emigrated from the U.K. some 28 years ago, and have been very successful. We are learning a lot about the local people and the Australian culture here, which of course, is the biggest reason we take these little jaunts! John showed us his latest “mid-life” crisis a police red Mazda RX8. Steve tried to talk Carol into getting one and she said her usual “only when you get that million dollar life insurance policy” until she sat in it. Now Carol wants one of her own. We are not sure how well it will do in five feet of snow but as Carol says “it’s really pretty!” Ahhh leave it to Carol to turn a fierce driving machine into something “pretty!” We had a wonderful time with John and Karen and learned so very much about their lives, their family and Australia.

The Aussie’s have a lot in common with Americans, and they really are staunch allies of ours. We are amazed at the number of people who have spoken with us about Iraq and other American events, and their common basic attitude is, “Hey, you guys are our best ally. We know if the brown stuff hits the fan over here some day, you guys will jump right into it with us, so we feel the same way about you.” Right on ya’ mates!

Saturday, February 23, 2008:

Today begins our final week here and we are both extremely unhappy about that!

We got up early this morning and drove to Perth, our destination for the morning with the Royal Perth Mint this morning, and it was a really cool look at the history of the Western Australian state’s beginnings, as just like in California, they had a gold rush here in the early 1890’s which helped open up the state for settlement. The Perth Mint is a member of an elite group of world mints whose pure gold, silver and platinum legal tender coins are trusted without question. Like the Australian Nugget, its Australian Kookaburra Silver Coin Series and Australian Lunar Gold and Silver Coin Series are extensively sought after by bullion investors worldwide. Andrew, our tour guide invited us back for the 2099 centennial and promised a gold brick to all of us. Carol said she thought she would try to make it till then, just to get the gold!!! In addition to finding out about the history of the gold rush in Australia, we also had the opportunity to watch our tour guide pour enough gold to create a gold bar. It was pretty amazing. We have often said how kind the Aussies have been to us and we met a woman today at the Mint who personified all of the kindness we have seen. Her name is Margaret and she had brought her grandchildren to the mint. She asked us some questions and we spent almost an half hour talking with her. We explained what had happened last weekend and she gave us her email and phone number and told us if we had ANY problems to give her a call. Margaret has been added to our blog and we just want to say thank you for your kindness to strangers!! As photography is not allowed we took some pictures of the outside building and you can find them at the Perth City Photo Album on Google Picassa would encourage anyone who is interested to check out the Perth Mint Website located at http://www.perthmint.com.au/

We also picked up our tickets for the Rottnest Island (more later on this trip) excursion next week. We will ride bikes all over the island and spend the afternoon diving with the fish and sea life, which is why we are both working on getting some sun before we do this.

We also had the opportunity to go to the Swan Bells in Perth. The Swan Bells fascinating historic content, its distinctive design - resulting from a major architectural competition and it's prize location combine to produce a distinctively different attraction. It has become an icon for Perth and Western Australia.

Swan Bells acts as a custodian of tradition for the over six million Australians who regard their ancestry as English and for all Western Australians as they carry a proud love of their worker roots. This historic ring of bells was gifted to the people of Western Australia as part of the national Bicentennial celebrations. The Swan Bells include the twelve bells of St Martin-in-the-Fields which are recorded as being in existence from before the 14th century and recast in the 16th century by Queen Elizabeth I.

The bells were again recast between 1725 and 1770 by three generations of the Rudhall family of bell founders from Gloucester in England, under the order of the Prince of Wales who was later crowned as King George II. They are one of the few sets of royal bells and are the only ones known to have left England. From one of London's most famous churches, in Trafalgar Square, the St Martin-in-the-Fields bells have rung out to celebrate many historic events. We had the opportunity to listen to the bells. It was pretty cool.


Then off to Fremantle for the “Fremantle Saturday Market.” We have been to Fremantle a bunch of times since we arrived here, but not for the market. Fremantle is sort of a mixture between Santa Cruz and Berkeley in California. We spent the afternoon looking at all of the TUPAS (Totally Useless Piece A S…) for sale, along with some mighty fine fresh fish, fruits and veggies. They even have impromptu street performances happening, so we enjoyed those. We enjoyed the Singing angel. Check out the pictures at our Google Picassa Website.

We are off to Rottnest tomorrow so more on the next blog. Until then we remain Carol and Steve, reporters from Down Under.

Tuesday, February 19, 2008

Dateline Down Under - The Pinnacles, an Accident and our renewed faith in Human Kind!

Dateline Down Under – Perth
Friday, February 15 – Tuesday, February 19, 2008

Friday, February 15, 2008:


Today is a “down day” for us, sort of a rest between road trips and longer outings. We are planning to head up to “The Pinnacles National Park” tomorrow, so we went out and stocked up on food, stuff for iced tea, and a few cleaning supplies, as Sunday will be a major housekeeping day for us. One of the things you want to do when you trade homes with another family is leave the place in the same shape you found it! We have been traveling around a lot, going to-and-from the beach, and all that stuff, so we felt it was time to give the house a good thorough (any of you who know us well understand what this entails…) cleaning). We did a “garden and yard” day last Sunday, and are sort of maintaining that, along with the mower man who hits the yards here, little by little.

We also had the home alarm people come out and look at one of the sensors that is acting up each time we leave the house. It keeps setting the alarm off, and the poor neighbors (who we have become pretty good friends with now because of this) have to keep calling us or coming over to tell us, “Hey, your alarm is acting up again!” We have called the help desk for the alarm company here a few times, learned how to bypass the offending sensor, and finally decided to have the company that installed it come out and check into it once-and-for-all, as we are leaving for our longest jaunt since getting here on Monday, down to the bottom of Western Australia. We cannot remember what the drill is in the States for those of you who have alarms, but if the cop shop has to come out here at ANY time for a “false alarm,” that’ll be $70 thank you. The guy who came out to fix the alarm system was an Irish gentleman named Liam, and he had us in stitches talking about what things were like when he first arrived from Ireland some 16 years ago, and his insights. He was also very interesting, because as an alarm technician he must also be licensed in telecommunications, network analysis and repair, and a lot of other IT-related stuff. We had a LOT of stories to share about bad software, hardware, and customers of IT organizations! Some things are world-wide in their application.

Steve also went through the car we are using to check the spare tire, under the “bonnet” (that is the hood for you Yanks) and assorted stuff, as we realized this past week that there are places out here that if you get stranded, you ARE stranded, especially on the weekends. As I think we have mentioned in previous blog postings, Western Australia is closed tighter than a tick from about Noon-to-4 p.m. on Saturday until Monday. Most of the businesses and shopping venues are closed through a day-and-a-half of the weekend, like it was in the states so many years ago.

We have sort of viewed this from both sides of the coin. It is great to see people off on Sundays to have time with their families, but if you forget something, or need something on Saturday evening or Sunday, especially if you are not in a major metropolitan area, no dice. America has spoiled us I guess.

The cyclone we have been writing about for the past week or so has just been hovering off the shore of northwestern Australia, just sort of building and building. We have had some cloud cover and wind as a result, but it comes and goes with no rain. They have named it “Nicholas” and it is the subject of nightly discussion on the weather channel. It has now reached “Category 3” and expected to hit a Cat 5 (highest level) in the next days as it races across Northwestern Australian and on into the center of the country (where we are headed in two weeks, by the way). According to Dr. Karl, the Weather Channel's local guru, a cyclone's (which is Australia's name for a hurricane) winds can be five times as strong as a nuclear blast!! If you want to follow along and find out where the cyclone goes next you can travel with us at www.weatherchannel.com.au


We have also been doing a lot of reading. Steve just finished a book given him as a Christmas gift from the Overacker family (Thanks guys!!) about Crazy Horse, Custer, the Battle of the Little Big Horn, and the “parallel lives of two American warriors.” For all of the time we have spent trekking the back country of Yellowstone and the surrounding environs, we have never made it to the site of what is commonly called “Custer’s Last Stand.” This has now moved close to the top of Steve’s short list of places to visit. The book is by Stephen Ambrose, and as usual, is extremely well researched and written. While living in a land of a different culture, it is interesting to read something such as this. If we had spent a little more time on understanding the different cultures inside our own country, a whole lot of bloodshed and misery could have been avoided. Steve said he felt it was Vietnam (and Iraq) all over again, at least in terms of the political and military blunders committed by people who should know better. He is now on to “The Kite Runner” and Carol is doing a Stephen King she found in Sheena’s library which she actually has not already read! Shock of shocks.

Well early start tomorrow, so off to bed. So until tomorrow’s adventure begins, we remain, Steve and Carol, wandering around the world.

Saturday, February 16, 2008:

First and foremost, we would like to say Happy Birthday Erin Elizabeth! Erin is 23 years old today. From what we understand, Erin is enjoying her birthday with her friend Amy in San Francisco. She is busy raising Vara Ann, (our almost three year old grand daughter) and going to school. She has been accepted at Sacramento State University and is working hard to finish college. We are so very proud of her and what she has accomplished in her life!! Happy Birthday and we will see you soon!!!


What began as another day of adventure, ended up as a REAL adventure for the two of us, and absolutely not a good one! However, it really restored our faith in our fellow humans, and thanks to the serious effort of strangers from another country, we can look back on it as an expensive, unfortunate experience. We have both learned that when you are in a different country, with different customs, sometimes you just have to play it by ear, be flexible and work things out as you go, and today will be a perfect example of that.

We got up early and had breakfast, checked the weather channel (no change from last night) and then headed north to “Pinnacles National Park.” This is our longest round-trip event to day, a day trip of almost 560 kilometers (about 350 miles), and this place is out in the middle of nowhere pretty much. You can see the photos at our Photo Album at Picassa. As we wrote yesterday, we did have some concerns about this, but it appeared many locals headed out here on weekends, and it wasn’t a big deal to people when we asked them about it. Steve had checked the car thoroughly, and it has been flawless as a road warrior for us.

It was cloudy and muggy (what else is new?) when we left Perth, but the sun began beating down through clear skies as we drove north on the “Brand Highway,” which is an off-shoot of The Great Northern Highway out here, which runs all the way up to the top of Western Australia. Every one we have talked with here says it is a long, boring, desolate drive to Broome, so Pinnacles National Park is far north as we intend to go while we are here. There is also a small beach resort called Cervantes and we will picnic there along the Indian Ocean.

The trip up was uneventful, so Steve gave Carol a little “stick time” learning to drive on the other side of the road, as once we began heading north there were almost no other cars to be found, and after about a two-hour stint, Steve qualified her to fly “solo” in the Holden, at least in non-high traffic volume areas. We passed a couple of Road Trains (see previous blog comments) and they still fascinate us. It is amazing that something this big can roll along the highways. But it is SO desolate out there. If you can imagine the Nevada desert between about Fallon Naval Air Station and heading east on Highway 50 towards Ely (“Desperation” Country for Stephen King fans -- KAK!), with almost no other traffic on the road, you have the idea. No towns, no cell phone coverage, zip. It is also a longer drive than we anticipated, but we stay busy talking about all of the stuff we are passing along the road. There are exactly TWO Road Houses along the way, each about 50 miles from one another, and only one of them is a 7 X 24 operation, which we carefully note. It is about 65 miles from the park.

We passed a lot of desert scrub and some real interesting trees (see photos -- we have been unable to define them as yet) and then a huge wind farm out in the badlands before finally reaching Pinnacles National Park. If anyone knows the name of this bush, let us know. We have searched a few flora and fauna books and haven't found it as yet.




We went through park and hiked the trails through all of the neat geological formations and desert, and then headed back to Cervantes for a late lunch. This is a truly amazing place and we were in awe of the beautiful stone structures we found. For more pictures, take a look at the Pinnacles Photo Album on Google Picassa. We are driving along the road out of the park and all of the sudden, “BANG!!” as we experienced a blowout on the left front wheel of the car. We obviously hit something along the road (the slash in the sidewall of the tire is huge and sharp) that neither of us saw. Although we were driving the park speed limit (like 40 or 60 kph, can’t remember now), the car bounced hard and slid off the road to the left. Steve got the car under control and we pulled over to the side of the road. Shorts are still dry (pretty much) so things are looking good. As Steve has said many times, “Any landing you can walk away from is a good one.” Carol pulled out the owner’s manual and read directions to Steve who found the tools and jack and changed the tire. We threw everything back in the boot (trunk) and headed out toward the ranger station, which is still about 3 - 5 miles from where this has happened. Steve says, “There is something wrong with the car, it is not steering correctly.” This is NOT good news.

We pulled into the Ranger Station. Remember, we are some 140 miles from home out in the middle of the freaking desert on a hot summer day, and we now have no spare tire! The car is not steering correctly and this is not a positive sign for the long trip back to Perth. The closest road house is about 70 miles to the south, and there is a LOT of nothing out there between us and it. Oh yeh, this is on Saturday afternoon, and there is almost NOTHING open out here anywhere. The rangers are great, and they call a tire repair place in a small town called Jurien Bay, which unfortunately for us, is like some 30 miles away in the WRONG direction from Perth. The closest town (Cervantes) has no services at all on Saturday. The man at the tire store promises to remain at his place of business (which is scheduled to close NOW for the weekend) until we can limp from the park into town. There are NO tow vehicles anywhere out this way, so we are on our own. We have the ranger tell the man we have some potential steering issues with the car so it’s going to be a while, so don’t go anywhere until we get there! We have no choice except to hope the car will make it.

We carefully drove into the small town and followed the ranger’s directions to the tire shop. The owner, his wife and young son were true to their word, and they were in the driveway awaiting our arrival. The owner jacked the car up and he and Steve look underneath, and the front sway bar is bent out-of-whack. The car is NOT drivable, at least not for 170 miles. Steve asks the man if there is any chance he can fix the car and he says, “Nope. The soonest I could even order any parts for the car is Monday, and it will take a day, most-likely two, for them to get here on the bus from Perth.” Another day to fix the car and we are now looking at Wednesday or Thursday of next week to get the car back home. Pucker factor is now going up a bit.

The business owner drove us over to a little “hole in the wall” service (which means mechanic is there) station and parts house, which is the official “Royal Automobile Club” (RAC) towing site for the area where we meet Rob Dellaway, the owner and mechanic. There are two others along the coast “near by;” one in Perth (170 miles south) and Geraldton (about the same distance north). Rob is GREAT. He calls the RAC, argues with the people on the phone, all the way up to a supervisor of some sort, on our behalf. No dice. The car is not registered with the RAC; we cannot join on the spur-of-the-moment (we are not permanent residents of Australia). Even if it was, they will only tow 36 km (that’s a tad over 22 miles -- Oh, how we miss AAA Plus right now!), which gets us about back to the park where this all happened. Our AAA card ain’t worth squat in Australia, and the pucker factor notches up another bit.

As the service station owner is calling all over Western Australia in order to try and find us a tow truck, we ask if there is any place we might spend the night if we cannot get a tow. Not really. Can we get the police to maybe help us? Nope. The police station is closed for the weekend, and they probably can’t do much of anything anyway. There is a small caravan park (trailer park) around the corner by the beach, but that’s pretty much it, and you know, we ain’t got a caravan anyway… well, we can sleep in the Holden. We know of no one to call for assistance (remember, our exchange partners are in Pollock right now and it is about midnight there yesterday). Uh, this ain’t looking too good Kemosabe….

FINALLY, after about 45 minutes on the phone, Rob talks a 24 X 7 tow company in Perth into driving up to Jurien Bay to pick us up. It is a 350-mile round trip, so it will take the truck about four hours to get here, and you do not even want to know what the tow bill is going to be! Well, we are pretty much out of options so we say, “Bring the truck on.” Steve asks the operator on the phone, “Now you are sure you know where to find us, and you ARE sure you are coming tonight, etc., etc.” and the operator assures us he will make sure it happens. It is now 4:30 p.m., everything in the town is locked up tighter than a drum (except the local bar which seems like an EXCELLENT option at this point, but we decide that probably is not a good idea), so we took a two hour walk along the beach in the evening. Rob gives us both his home and mobile phone numbers and tells us to call him if no one has shown up by about 9 p.m., by which time it’s gonna be pretty dark out there – but we assure him we will. We thank him for his obviously going the extra mile for two stranded foreigners and he just says, “Ahhh, no worries a’ tall, Mites…”

Despite our present problems Jurien Bay is a beautiful little town, and the Indian Ocean up here is again spectacular! We walked along white sand beaches for about two miles, and we can see some low-lying sandy islands just off the coast. There is a nice little harbor there with a lot of fishing boats, and a long break water made of large rocks that we walked out to the end of and explored. Summer vacations, camping and Cray fishing are real big here and during the season the Aussies swarm the place for Cray fishing. Unfortunately, we don’t have any sleeping bags or a tent. The prices of homes here are just phenomenal! A lot (no house, just the dirt) is going for about $550K - $600K if you want to even peek at the ocean. The tow truck driver later tells us that if you want a house, add another $400K - $500K because real estate has gone nuts here (think California in 2004 or early 2005) and contractors are charging accordingly. We headed back into town and found a bottle shop (liquor store) open. We snagged a couple of sodas and headed back to a park by where the car is parked and enjoyed out “picnic lunch” in the park, saving the iced tea for later, just in case….

The tow truck showed up about 7:45 p.m., and a welcome sight it was. The man was quite nice and he had the car on the truck in no time flat. We talked with him on the way back home and found out he had worked in the mines of North Western Australia before coming up with enough money to purchase his tow truck, which cost him $190 Grand. He told us about life in the mines here, and that his son had just begun and apprenticeship to become a miner. Good money, but a VERY dangerous job. To be honest, both of us just said “Yeh” to him a couple of times because his accent was so thick you could slice it with a knife, but we talked about cricket (the sport), life in Perth, and a bunch of other stuff on the drive home.

Other than a couple of kangaroos bouncing along the road in the dark, and a few spots of recent road kill (the driver suspected Dingo Dogs of these) we saw a TOTAL of two cars on the road before getting back within about 20 kilometers of Perth! We did see one or two Road Trains, but even they don’t seem to be doing much out in the bush on a Saturday night. Had we attempted to head out for Perth and run into trouble, we would have been in Deep Doo Doo, to be sure.

We rolled the Holden into the garage about 10:30 p.m. and we have been never happier to see “home!” We emptied the car, had a glass of wine (or two) and hit the rack. Again, but for the kindness of strangers we did not even know, we could have been in for some pretty rough times out in the middle of nowhere. Obviously we feel terrible about the car, but now that all is said and done, we consider ourselves to be very fortunate, indeed.

So until tomorrow’s adventure begins (and we hope a LOT less adventurous), we remain, Steve and Carol, wandering around the world.

Tuesday, February 19, 2008:

The “Carol and Steve Express” is back on track and running again! We are So happy.

We spent Sunday cleaning the house to the bone, as we had planned, and threw in a little garden time just to enjoy the sunshine. We enjoyed a nice spaghetti dinner (Steve’s Grandmother’s Famous Italian Recipe!! – some of you have enjoyed it at our home) and a quiet evening. We have decided not to email or call the Sheena and Trevor until we have the car issue “sorted out” as the Aussies like to say, because there ain’t a lot they can do about it on a Sunday from 10,000 miles away, and we do not wish to disrupt their holiday – they have been hitting the Tahoe area resorts for some heavy skiing for the past few weeks and this is the last sort of crap they need to hear. We consult with the neighbor who has to jump when the alarm acts up, and he gives us some good advice about handling the insurance end of things here.

Monday is telephone day with the insurance people, who are very receptive to our issues. They make arrangements to get the paperwork going, get the car picked up and taken to an “assessment centre” (Claims Department in the States), and get us a rental car – gee, Steve is happy some one is going to trust him to drive again! We did get some great shots of the full moon Monday night after dinner, so be sure and check them out. Called the Lannin’s and they were GREAT! Helped us finish the insurance details with the car and told us not to worry about it – accidents happen. Easy to say when it is your car, but not the other guy’s – but we really appreciated it! They will be smart and stay at home for president’s Day and watch videos on T.V., which is what we have recommended to them in light of the annual idiocy at the ski resorts that weekend. Over here there isn’t any President’s Day and we sort of enjoyed that.

The weather has turned MARVELOUS here since today! The temperature is now down in the low 20’s (70’s) and it is still sunny and warm. This is evidently a result of Cyclone Nicholas coming inland since late Sunday afternoon. We have turned off the AC for the first time since we have been here, the humidity is almost gone, and we are looking forward to a comfortable night of sleep with the windows open! It has been quite windy, but the skies remain crystal clear and deep blue, with little puffs of white clouds from time-to-time. Steve took some great night-time shots and you can find them at our Night Shots Photo Album on Google Picassa.


Steve Overacker and his son Joe have addicted Steve to this crazy British show called “Top Gear.” It is simply hilarious, and if you get BBC America or UK TV, you have to watch it. It is about these three idiot guys who do all sorts of weird stuff with and to cars on sort of a dare. Carol even will drop in and watch for a few minutes of it if her book is getting slow… We met some Brits while on the road last week, and asked them about the show. The man was obviously not impressed with the show, or Steve’s addiction to it. “Ah, he’s just a big, bloody chauvinist PIG, and I cannot believe that an ass hole like him is making so much damned money!!!” His wife just sort of laughed. Last night they were making limousines out of other cars and delivering Rock Stars to some awards show in downtown London and we just roared. This show and another Brit show called “Silent Witness” have become our favorites, and of course, Carol has found “Jeopardy” on another station as well.

One thing about waking up in the morning here is checking the email each day, as all of you Blokes and Sheila’s are a day behind us. Steve was extremely saddened to find out Tuesday morning that the husband of a former employee died over the weekend in an ATV accident of some sort out in the Nevada desert. Details are sketchy at this point, but after our desert brush with adventure of this past weekend, it hits home for the both of us. Thank you to Mark Vasquez and Terry Green for passing along the information.

We are heading into downtown Perth via bus and Metro (TransPerth) rail link to pick up our “hire car” at the Hertz offices after getting it set up by the insurance company. We have found out that the Lannin’s auto insurance policy includes a provision for a 14-day rental car similar to ours, so by 1:00 p.m. we are back on the road and in business. Steve took some great pictures along the way and you can find them at the Canning Vale and Metro Stop Photo Album on Google Picassa. Take a look at the bird's nest. It is pretty cool.

We plan to head south tomorrow down to the very bottom of Western Australia (check out Cape Leeuwin in Western Australia on the Internet) for a couple of days before returning Friday. Friday will begin our last week in this area, and it has blown by WAY TO Fast!! We are already feeling sad about having to pack up and leave here so soon, but we are also quite sure the Lannin’s (who have been on an “around the world” vacation since early December) probably want their lovely home back.

Early start tomorrow, so off to bed. So until tomorrow’s adventure begins, we remain, Steve and Carol, wandering around the world.

Thursday, February 14, 2008

Dateline Down Under - February 12-14

Dateline Down Under – Perth
Tuesday, February 12 - 14, 2008

It is February 14th here in Australia and as I sit here typing this blog we are in the middle of what has become a common occurrence in Perth a nightly wind storm, so loud it feels like the house will soon come off of the foundation. However, tonight the temperature has dropped significantly and it looks a lot like rain. Must be something about Thursdays here!

Carol has left the keyboard and is now watching some Australian Science show on the tellie in which they are measuring the size of ram and bull testes, so Steve has orders to mention this in the blog after having to take a break to join in watching the show…

As the previous blog mentioned we have spent this week traveling the State of Western Australia that surrounds Perth, learning about the history and meeting new people. It has been a truly busy week and we have lots to tell you.
We managed to get the video of the koalas at Yanchep National Forest. For your animal entertainment just click on this video:

This week may seem like a geology, history and cultural lesson but what would you expect from us? To begin with, before you begin reading the below, understand that we are walking on the oldest earth on Planet Earth! The area surrounding us here in Western Australia has been here for 3.5 BILLION years, and constitutes the oldest geology on the planet! The Aboriginal peoples have been roaming and stewarding the land in this area for some 20,000 years, according to all of the historical information we have come across in our travels.

Tuesday, February 12, 2008
On the Road

Tuesday found us packing our lunch and heading south. Our goal was to go to Rockingham, Mandurah, take a trip to Pinjarra, drive back up towards Jarrahdale and check out Serpentine National Park and finish the day driving through Armadale and Cannington and try to make it back to the Indian Ocean for some sunset pictures.

Steve was thrilled to find CalTrans alive and well in Australia! We were just leaving Fremantle on the coastal road, and we entered a construction zone. There was actually a guy along the side of the road SLEEPING ON HIS SHOVEL! Leaning on that puppy with his eyes closed! Steve didn’t want to piss him off by taking his picture, but we had had a conversation with a couple of Brits and our tour driver back in Melbourne, and they were ragging on the British Highway workers, and we were giving the CalTrans dudes the business, and now this! It was great!

We made our way through Fremantle and followed the Cockburn road through Rockingham and on into Mandurah, these towns are pretty much like most of the towns you see along the coast, we left Mandurah and Carol found a really neat place called Abingdon Miniature Village and you can find the pictures on the Google Picassa Photo Album linked here. The village was created by Ian and Sonia Klopper who decided in 1999 to cast off the shackles of thecorporate business ladder and follow their dreams. Ian had a passion for gardening and Sonia's dream ws to establish a traditional tearoom. They have definitely realized their dream and it is truly a wonderful place. The Village has miniature replicas of historic British buildings and a great shrubbery maze. The pictures of the miniatures are so life-like…you will be amazed that this is all hand done and is pretty cool. We chased each other through the maze and walked through the secret garden. Knowing that we both love to garden you can see by the pictures that we were both really happy to have found this out of the way place. It truly was a little treasure and made the trip worthwhile.

After we left Abingdon, we followed the Pinjarra Road to Pinjarra which is in the Shire of Murray (here in Australia counties are called “shires” (remember your lore from the Hobbit and the Trilogy!)), we walked the town and took some pictures of the really cool buildings in this part of the world. One of the really cool things we notice about traveling around Australia is the way the towns are set up for tourists. There is always an Information Board just as you drive into the town followed up by the directions to the local visitor’s bureau. These bureaus are very well equipped and give you so much information about what is going on in the town and how to get around in the town. The people are so friendly and they don’t mind giving us “Yanks” some help. We have found over the past few weeks that there are very few Americans touring this area (in one town we were only the second couple to sign a guest register since August of 2007), but many people from Europe. This is especially true for the Brits, who seem to be everywhere enjoying their terrific exchange rates word-wide. This is good news for us, because we LOVE Brits, as you all know from previous adventures.

The small towns here and especially the road signs are quite reminiscent of Ireland and the United Kingdom. One can wander through the small shops and talk with the locals, and just soak up the local accents and culture. Also along the road are these HUGE “stations” (U.S. translation is “ranch”) for sheep, cattle and horses, and some of the homes and fencing of these places is just superb! The local land looks an awful lot like California during the summer months, especially in the San Joaquin Valley and surrounding foothill communities, such as Valley Springs.

We drove through the small hamlet of Dwellingup (sort of a spot on the road), and then headed north and decided we would stop at Serpentine Falls National Park for lunch, and boy was that a great choice! We stopped first at St. Stephen’s Catholic Church, built in 1913, and checked the place out, as well as the Serpentine Road House, which is Australian for sort of a mini-mart/petrol station, bar and cafĂ© all rolled up in one. Road Houses might be the only place to stop along Australian small roads and the outback for hours at a time, so are quite a meeting place for locals.

We entered the park and just as we were looking for a place to park and picnic, Steve spied an entire family of Wongas (grey kangaroos) grazing and shading themselves in the picnic area. We stopped and “National Geographic Steve” began taking pictures. We thought this would be our one and only chance to really get a chance to look at these beautiful creatures. Boy, were we wrong! As soon as we parked our car and made our way to the picnic table we discovered we had some of new “best friends” looking for a handout! This was amazing. These guys came right up to Carol and kept looking at her with those doe eyes and begging for food. Our rule is the same as the rule for any animal…. no human food; but Carol was able to pet these guys and they just sat there soaking up the attention…People who come to Australia pay hundreds of dollars for the “Kangaroo Experience” and here we were right in the middle of an entire family. Total cost for the tour: $10 UAD to enter the National Park. Of course, Steve took about a hundred pictures and video of the entire event and you can see the video below as well as the pictures located at our Google Picassa Photo Album called Serpentine Falls. Be sure to look closely at the Momma and baby Kangaroo. They are priceless!

Steve also took some video so you could feel just like you were watching Animal Kingdom or one of those reality shows. Here's the video:



A word or two about “National Parks” in Australia. We are hitting quite a few as is our usual M.O., so Steve flagged down a Park Ranger and asked about the equivalent of our American “Golden Eagle” pass. The Ranger laughed and explained to us that National Parks in Australia are REALLY State Parks in Australia, with each state running its own operation. He told us the cost of an annual pass in each state would far exceed the cost of daily permit passes, so lesson learned. We chatted a bit about “rangering” in Australia and the U.S., and he headed on his way.

Carol began wandering around the park reading all of the signs and we soon found out that the Serpentine National Park is in the Darling Scarp. This scarp (escarpment) is at the western edge of a huge ancient plateau, the foundation of much of the south-western part of Australia. This area is composed mainly of rocks that are upwards of 2,500 million years old (translates to 2.5 BILLION years old). One of the things we noticed were the small round red rocks and we found out these rocks are laterite rock which was formed about 10 million years ago, when conditions were wetter and more humid, leaching minerals from the soil to form a hard, insoluble crust. They make for really nice trails and roads, and it is interesting to see how uniform all of these small rocks are throughout the southern region of the state here.
This area is rich in Aboriginal history as well. Long before the arrival of the Europeans, the Nyoongar Aborigines of the Whadjuk and probably the Bindjareb (Australian names are so cool!) tribes hunted and camped in the woodlands regions that lay between what is now Perth and Pinjarra. It was the Nyoongars of the south-west who used fire sticks to burn parts of the forest, and over thousands of years, the scrub fires created some areas of open forest and grassland. It is estimated that the aborigines were here for 20,000 years before the Europeans came to Australia.

The Serpentine River, the surrounding hills and wetlands of the coastal plains, provided the Nyoongar with fresh water and food, including fish, tortoise, lizards and birds. Fish traps were constructed on the river, downstream from the falls and where it flows through a chain of small lakes, on its journey to the Peel Inlet. With the start of the winter rains, tribal groups from the north, east and south, would gather near Barragup to catch the fish that were driven downstream by the fast flowing waters.

We also came across an unusual species of an acorn called a “Honkey” nut of all things, which is indigenous to this region and only found here. We thought all the “Honky Nuts” lived in the U.S. and had a good laugh over that….



After our history lesson we saddled up, said good bye to our new Wonga friends and made our way to Serpentine Falls. They are quite small this time of year, but there were two really nice pools under them. Unfortunately, we were not aware of this and had no swim suits. As there were others there diving off the rocks into the pool, we decided not to scare them all to death by skinny dipping.


Then off to Serpentine Dam to see what all of the weather casters were talking about when they said the Serpentine Dam was at 36 percent of its capacity. What we found was really disheartening. The reservoir is very low and as you can see from the pictures it does not look good for our friends here in Perth. The Serpentine and Canning Dams provide most of the water for this part of the country and the levels are very low. They were stating on the weather channel last week that although Perth City received all of the rain we wrote about in an earlier blog, there was almost none that fell in the mountains.


We drove down the road and picked up the Munda Biddi Trail for a short hike in the bush. This trail, which is about 900 Km long along the West Coast of Australia, and the Bibbulmun Track (1,000 klicks in length), are the two longest hiking trails on this side of the country, and we wanted to experience some time in the bush before heading into the Uluhru Region (Ayers Rock) later in our trip next month. EVERYTHING you have read about the Australian Outback it TRUE! The “mossies” and the biting flies, combined with the heat and humidity, made a short few mile walk seem like a day on the PCT back home! It is tough to decide which needs to go on first – the DEET or the SPF! This is not long trekking for the timid. Of course, Carol was on constant alert for Snikes!!

We left the bush and headed to Canning Dam to see how the water situation was there. About the same as at the other dam, but this dam looked more like a “dam” that we were used to.



We decided to hit a brewery and pizza joint in Fremantle for dinner (no drinks except water!) before finishing the day back at Cottlesloe Beach (which has become our favorite beach) We made it just in time to join THRONGS of others along the beach area to enjoy watching the sun slowly going down over the Indian Ocean. Check out the photos at our Indian Ocean Photo Album on Google Picassa. We were really surprised at how many people were there and the other thing that was pretty amazing was the number of parrots in the trees. We found our friends the Short Tailed Shearlings coming back to roost in the trees along the beach as well. Thousands of birds and almost as many people! Be sure and listen to the birds on the video – what a racket!

For those of you who would like to hear some of the birds of Australia, here's another animal kingdom video just for you:

But Steve managed to park the car, run down to the beach and get some GREAT pictures… We then decided to find our way home in the dark and go a different way, memo to Carol, always bring your glasses… sunglasses don’t work at night. Well, with Carol trying to navigate and Steve driving we drove up the north coast until we came to a street we remembered from the week before and made our way to Perth.


The city is just beautiful at night so Steve the photographer pulled into a local park and he managed to get some really great pictures of the skyline with the moon shining behind some of the storm clouds that we have become very used to. For access to all of the other pictures, don't forget to go to The Eastern Day Trip on Google Picassa.

A twelve hour day but worth every minute of it!

Wednesday, February 13, 2008
On the Road
Wednesday found us Heading East Young Man and Woman, and our destinations for the day included Mundaring, York, Northam, Toodyay, Bullsbrook and finally through the Swan Valley. Some more great names for towns, lots of things to see and do and we were not disappointed.
We decided to stop at a place called Mount Lookout Park. One of the amazing things about the Western State out here is the huge diversity of land, forestlands, farms, huge stations, small farms and wineries, “cowboy” towns, and the like. We drove through miles of hardwood forests between Perth and York. Somewhat like where we hail from in California, the folks out here in these parts hit the coast in the middle 1600’s on, and begin migrating inland and across the interior of Australia about the same time our ancestors were settling the West in America. We took some video of this area and for your enjoyment here it is:



Along this highway we also got our first serious gander at what the Aussie’s call a “Road Train.” If you drive an 18-wheeler in the States and think your stuff don’t stink, you are a wuss! They have these tractor-trailer rigs here that are totally unbelievable. Where we have a tractor with one long or two regular (okay, three in Nevada or east) trailers, these dudes are MONSTERS! They are up to fifty meters (that’s more than 150 feet) long, have as many as SIXTY wheels, and weigh in at a svelte 115 TONS! Not only that, they blow across the country at about 55 MPH (one guy passed us when we were doing about 95 kph), and you do NOT want to get in their way. They have these big grills like cow catchers (we were told these are for protection in the desert and outback because of the kangaroos at night), six huge lights (we saw a few with giant red spotlights on the top of the cabs) on the front grill, and they just look menacing. We ran into them all day on the “Great Eastern Highway,” which connects the West coast of Australia with the Interior of the country. They say they are the most-efficient method of transporting vast amounts of good throughout the country, but Steve keeps having this vision of our little Holden getting crunched between a couple of these bad boys….For a video of these big bad boys check out this link in You-Tube. An amazing sight!

The first town we stopped in was York. We expected an “English” town, and found a cowboy town instead. We have decided it is our favorite town and we are going back sometime next week. York was the first inland European settlement in Western Australia, founded in 1837 about 60 miles inland from Perth. They have restored many of the heritage buildings from the “Western” and Australian Victorian era and it was by far one of the best places we have seen. We had the opportunity to see some really cool buildings, read some great signs, and learn that many of the people who settled this country have a lot in common with their American cousins of the same time period. One can almost see Tombstone, Arizona as you walk along the streets. You can find much of what we found on our Google Picassa photo album for York.

As always Steve manages to find the best pictures and signs and was particularly impressed with the sign that said in 1897 “Nothing Happened on This Spot.” Gotta love that Aussie sarcasm at its finest. We also visited the local post office for some stamps and found that some things never change, in any country or any town. One guy at the cage, 15 people in line, and another postal worker asleep in the back room! After wandering through York we headed out across the country north to Northam.

We drove for about 120 miles between York and the Swan Valley later in the day, and in that time we saw ALMOST NO ONE ELSE ON THE ROAD! We passed many large stations, saw a lot of cattle, deer (yes, the have deer farms here), sheep, parrots and a LOT of wheat fields, but man, it was desolate out there. No cell phone service and we were really happy the car didn’t act up on us out there. Beautiful country and neat back country roads, but really, really sparse!

We were able to stop a look out and from here you could see forever, we took some video for all of our friends and here it is:

We found a wonderful park in Northam which is right along the Avon River. They have a white swan park which is also home to pelicans, mud hens and lots of people. As always, Steve always finds someone to talk to and the men’s room at the park is not an exception. Carol could hear him talking to one of the senior citizens from Perth who was on an “old-folks” tour. Seems they had been driven down to Northam for a barbeque and were taking the train back to Perth. We found out lots about the area and got some tips for our trip to Margaret River. I don’t think Steve has ever met a stranger! He also got some pretty cool shots of the pelicans having lunch in the river, as well as an Australian “drive through” liquor store…. No kidding! They are all over the place here.

We also walked across the suspension bridge the city built in 1982? It was very nicely made, cost the citizens about $82,000, and Steve decided to give Carol a walk of her life and kept moving the bridge back and forth.. Good thing we hadn’t had lunch yet. Carol figures to get her licks in when we do the Sydney Bridge Climb toward the end of the trip, as Steve is not a big fan of heights unless he is in an airplane.


Later we picnicked in the park and watched part of an aboriginal program being put on for the National Day of Apology. The Stolen Generations (or Stolen Generation) is a term used to describe the Australian Aboriginal and Torres Strait Islander Children, usually of mixed descent, who were removed from their families by Australian government agencies and church missions, under various state acts of Parliament, denying the rights of parents and making Aboriginal children wards of the state, between approximately 1869 and well into the 1970’s. Finally in the 1980’s an investigation was allowed into this practice and it was found that the former Australian Parliaments were wrong to do this. Finally after several years (and lots of lawyers as Steve would say) it was decided that the Australian government should apologize for these actions. Today was the National Day of Apology and it was celebrated throughout the country. If you are interested in what happened, you can check out Wikipedia article called The Stolen Generation. Pretty amazing stuff. Of course, like America’s treatment of our native Americans and Blacks, it can be a touchy subject, so we just quietly listen to what the locals have to say on the subject, but a vast majority of the people we listened to discussing the subject were pretty much of the “It was about time we did this as a country” opinion.

We left Northam and Carol found another “off the beaten path” site on the map to see (which is her specialty as the expedition navigator) and we wound up at St. Saviour’s Church and Cemetery. If you know anything about us you know how much we love cemeteries and this was perfect. This church was built in 1850’s and the cemetery included people who had donated the land and also has recent burials. People walked to this church, or road buggies or horse, from a distance of some 15 kilometers to attend services. It was a very quiet place and was being taken care of by two parrots as you can see. One of the things that really surprised us was that the land (minus the trees) could have been a twin to where Carol’s family came from and still live, in Buffalo, Oklahoma. Harris and Salley, check out the photos and see if you don’t agree. We took a lot of photos on our trip back there last summer of the small cemeteries inhabited by Carol’s ancestors, and the similarities were pretty shocking. A very stark look at tough people settling a tough country and living hard lives. This part of the world was inhabited by the Scottish and Irish immigrants, and there are still a lot of Irish living and farming in the area.

In addition there is some really interesting history regarding the area. This area is purported to be over 3,300,000,000 years old and again was first inhabited by the Aborigines. We encourage you to take a look at both of the documents we photographed in the vestibule of the church… they are a very interesting read of a very interesting history. You will find all of the photos in the St. Saviour's Church Photo Album in our Google Picassa area.
We then headed down the road and made our way to Toodyay (pronounced “Toojay” according to Steve’s restroom pal), which is a small town in the middle of nowhere. It was once an industrial area, and there is a model of the local mill still in existence. There is also a “lollie shop” (candy store) collocated with the visitor center, which we both enjoyed! We also found some really cool post cards and Carol has figured out what she is going to collect from Australia… linen tea towels. These towels tell a story about each town we visit and are very decorative.



We then left and headed through the foothills and Avon Valley to Bindoon. Steve just had to go there because it is a “Tidy Town” award winner, which is an award given in Ireland (and brought along to Australia by the Irish) for small towns that are neat and nicely turned out. Our path took us through some lovely back roads, orange groves, small wineries, large cattle and sheep stations, a deer farm and some really beautiful countryside. It is so amazing that so close to the industrial world of Perth and Fremantle lays a world so different. Steve and I decided we enjoy the outlying areas much more than the Big City! We also found out later that evening in reading the “Western Australian” newspaper that the now recently deposed leader of Australia’s largest Biker Gang (their Hell’s Angels) lives there. Oh, the stuff we find on our road trips….


Something that was pretty cool was some of the telephone poles. The locals had painted them, and not just painted, but pictures of people, places and things. It reminded Carol of old fashioned circus posters. Bright colors and interesting pictures, all different on each pole we passed. Hopefully you can see from the photos we took. They were really neat. Another thing we have found here is that the farmers and ranchers still use our old late 1800’s style windmills to produce drinking water for their livestock, which was pretty cool. We could both remember them all over California as kids. For more photos check out the East Day Trip photo album on Google Picassa.
We headed home and decided to take the Great Northern highway through Midland and back to Perth and had the opportunity to go through Swan Valley. This area reminds us of Napa Valley with the fine wineries, boutique beer, olives, chocolates, ice cream and fresh produce. We didn’t stop at any of the wineries as we are heading towards Margaret River in the next few days, but we did see a lot of Road Trains in the area again, heading out to the various highways across the country here. Finally we made our way home and enjoyed talking about the last two days.
So until tomorrow’s adventure begins, we remain, Steve and Carol, wandering around the world!
Reporters From Down Under